The people of Porto, Portugal, are proud of their Porto-style tripe. It’s been a part of their gastronomical history for 600 years. It’s a hearty dish made up of tripe—that’s cow’s stomach—as well as chewy bits of pig’s ear, cow’s feet, beans and carrots. The traditional meal almost disappeared after the mad cow disease outbreak in the early aughts. But Manuel Moura, a restaurant owner, wouldn’t let Porto-style tripe die. He started a gastronomical brotherhood to defend and promote it. We’re in Porto for the group’s annual induction of new members. It’s a big deal with caps and gowns and medals.
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